I thought it would be good but now I would rather use the 2x4 across 3 joists and hang the heavy bag from the center. I'm going to need to return this ceiling mount now. I already have the Title Heavy Duty Spring to use and I will buy carabiners soon, I'll probably check the hardware store for them.Load Bearing Wall Framing Basics - Structural Engineering and Home Building Part One
Should I go with one of these mounts or just go with an eye bolt through the center of the 2x4 and hang the bag from that? The 2x4 is not there right now. I'm going to be putting it up for the purpose of spreading the weight and hanging the heavy bag from it. Reading comprehension, sheesh! My son got a lb bag and I took the heavy eye bolt that came with it and screwed it into a 4" x 24" heavy wooden beam in my garage that holds up my master bath above it.
And I must tell you that when he is punching the bag I can fill it if I am in the bathroom and can hear it on the same side of the house. I don't know if a 2 x 4 will work. And if possible can you put if across four ceiling joists or can you add another joist your self. The eye hook has no problem holding the pound bag. I would beef up the area all you can. Then enjoy the bag its great fun.
It only takes a minute to sign up. I have standard 2x4 rafters and want to use it just for storage and I am worried they are not strong enough. I was thinking I could buddy or sister up the 2x4's with another 2x4 or 2x6.
I am no engineer but logically I am thinking this would work. I am open to any idea that is safe and easy to do. As a general rule, you should be able to put reasonable storage in the roof space without added effort. If you have concerns though and you do, because you're askingyou need to speak to a qualified engineer as each roof is different.
Pretty sure you mean "joists," not "rafters. In regards to your question, however, I'd agree that it depends largely upon what you intend to store. I am often putting things into attics that weigh lbs, but due to their surface area, they only come out to PSF, which is negligible. Sign up to join this community.
The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. How can I strengthen attic rafters for storage? Ask Question. Asked 9 years, 3 months ago. Active 6 years, 11 months ago. Viewed 11k times. Aarthi 1, 6 6 gold badges 19 19 silver badges 29 29 bronze badges. Daniel Daniel. How far are the 2x4's spanning?
Also, are they just regular rafters, or are they part of an engineered truss? Active Oldest Votes. Depending on the specific structure of your ceiling, this could be a very bad idea. If done badly, it will simply increase the weight on the structure, not add strength at all.Reinforce attic floor bingwallpaper co ceiling storage in garage beams 2x4 trusses help reinforce attic floor bingwallpaper co trusses archives page 2 of 3 hansen buildings modify attic truss for ladder and storage.
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February 1, Rafters vs trusses for residential homes garage storage how much weight can trusses take garage ceiling storage load capacity 19 span help garage attic storage strengthen loft floor posh pics page 1 homes. Reinforce attic floor bingwallpaper co garage truss attic storage weight the journal board reinforce attic floor bingwallpaper co modify attic truss for ladder and storage attic trusses flooring roof ered loading house. Skip to content Reinforce attic floor bingwallpaper co ceiling storage in garage beams 2x4 trusses help reinforce attic floor bingwallpaper co trusses archives page 2 of 3 hansen buildings modify attic truss for ladder and storage.
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It only takes a minute to sign up. Status Quo: 2x4's actual size spaced 16" on-center running the width of the building uninterrupted, with the ends resting on top of the wall top plate. Goal: Reinforce the joists and lay down a wood subfloor OSB, ply, etc. Plan: "Sister" or double the ceiling joists with 2x6's or 2x8's with the ends resting on the wall top plates then lay the subfloor on the new joists. Question: I understand that there are requirements for doubling joists, including how frequently they need to be fastened, but does this plan make sense overall?
This will add strength to them and keep your headroom. Be sure to run the length of the plywood across the joist. Your plan is sound. I would be certain the joists that are added are tight to existing and use a deadman or "jimmy bar" as I call it to ease the existing joists up a bit in unison to help relieve some of the existing sag that is in the ceiling.
Using nails will create too much vibration and may cause cracking or worst, your existing ceiling to come down. Depending on the span overall and the location of the mid support, determines the size of new joists, or just go with 2X8s for better insulation under the floor. I would up the immediate area under the plywood another level of 2X4 or more to get a total of " of insulation on the ceiling.
Add plywood to the bottom of the 2X4with deck screws. Plywood on top is a floor and adds to the strength making something like an "H" beam. You lose very little height this way. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. How to properly double on ceiling joists Ask Question.
Asked 3 years ago. Active 2 years, 8 months ago. Viewed 6k times. Hari Ganti Hari Ganti 1, 11 11 silver badges 35 35 bronze badges. No, I said "actual size" because the true, measured dimensions are 2x4. Otherwise, I would have not said "actual," or possibly specified it as "nominal.
What kind of electrics or other utilities in the way to set new framing? Jack I'm not sure I understand you. By new framing, do you mean removal of the old joists and replacement with new joists, or do you mean to ask if there is anything in the way of doubling the joists?
BillOertell There was a golden age when 2x4's were actually 2x4, not to mention rough-sawn. Much better wood, too. Active Oldest Votes. Jack Jack Thanks Jack! Out here in the Bay Area CAwe don't quite need 15" of insulation, and at that point, I'd just be losing heat from the walls instead.The time to address these structural issues, like reinforcing floor joists, is at the time it was built or during a retrofit or remodel.
Contractors may cut through floor joists to accommodate plumbing or HVAC mechanical equipment as long as they properly transfer the floor load to adjoining joists by adding headers. In a perfect world any floor joist that is cut should have a header installed, preferably two and doubled adjacent joists. All headers should be nailed to the cut joists and their ends attached to two adjacent, uninterrupted floor joists.
The use of joist hangers facilitates this repair. A single header nailed to the cut joist and uninterrupted joists will work for openings less than 4 feet. If the header spans more than 4 feet, both the header and the trimmer joists should be doubled. Reinforcing floor joists is best done by doubling of floor joists. Doubling of joists is recommended under walls, heavy objects like tubs and at large openings. Doubling of joists can solve alot of problems like sagging, uneven or undersized floor joists.
In these situations it sometimes makes sense to scab the floor joist or even all of the floor joists. Many times I will apply scabs to floor joists that were previously or will currently be notched or drilled to install plumbing pipes. Note — the photos show a recent bathroom remodel where we relocated the tub drain across several floor joists. We cut out and doubled up a header where the tub p-trap was to be installed. Scabbing is also used alot with rotted rafters and wall studs.
Recently we used a scabbing technique successfully on this roof deck project. Rob is a recognized leader on best practices and how-to information for building professionals. On this website, Rob covers all aspects of construction, building science, home improvement, woodworking, remodeling, and some of the best product and tool reviews.
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He's a strong advocate for "raising-the-bar" in the construction trades and promoting the trades to youth. Robert Robillard Carpentry robertrobillard Facebook. Search for more articles here. Enter keywords like roof leak, bookcase, deck, etc to find your topic. If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Recommended articles Reinforcing A Half Wall. Difference Between Hardwood Floor Fasteners. Attic Remodeling. Not what you're looking for? By clicking on 'Accept' or continuing to use this website, you agree that cookies can be placed. Necessary Always Enabled.A cracked ceiling joist indicates that the structural member is either defective, is undersized for the load placed on it or was drilled inappropriately to allow the passage of wiring or plumbing. Whatever the cause, it is imperative to reinforce the joist immediately to prevent further damage.
For ceilings with exposed joists where the location of the crack is visible, this repair should only take a couple of hours. Moving either side too much at one time increases the chance of a joint mismatch. Cut the patching material in two equal pieces with a circular saw.
You'll need at least 2 feet on each side of the crack. Put a layer of construction adhesive on one face of each piece of patching material.
Line up the top and bottom of the patches with the existing joist. Place one piece of patching material on each side of the joist. Use a C-clamp on each end to hold the patching in position. Drill pilot holes for the bolts on each side of the crack. Beginning at least 6 inches from either side of the crack, drill an elongated five dice pattern, one top and bottom on each side and one hole in the middle.
Loosen and remove the adjustable jacks and C-clamps after allowing the construction adhesive to cure for at least 24 hours. Finn McCuhil is a freelance writer based in Northern Michigan. He worked as a reporter and columnist in South Florida before becoming fascinated with computers. After studying programming at University of South Florida, he spent more than 20 years heading up IT departments at three tier-one automotive suppliers.
He now builds wooden boats in the north woods. Skip to main content. Tips Longer patching material is better. Covering the full length of both sides of the joist is ideal. Patching material can be matching dimensional lumber or steel plate. Warning Do not lift joists with jacks and posts.
Use a single-piece adjustable jack post.
Reinforcing Garage Rafters for Storage
If jacks tip or become dislodged, the post quickly becomes a flying object. Customer Service Newsroom Contacts.Log in or Sign up. Joined: Oct 20, Location: Maryland. Here's a bad picture of the current ceiling structure.
I do a lot of work on cars in this garage, and usually have a car in the garage sideways in order to get around to all the sides - so adding a support beam in the middle is not an option.
What I'm debating on is custom ordering some 2x4's to go the entire 26ft span and sistering the rafter, or running a 4x6 beam across the 22ft span, and supporting that with a 6x6 beam up against each side wall.
Also considering removing the current osb and sistering the 2x4 rafters with 2x6's or 2x8's, although I'd have to trim them at the top plate to fit with the angle of the roof Any suggestions? If at all possible id rather avoid having any beams as with all the tools its a tight fit in this garage as is. Last edited: Jul 11, I would talk to a company that does custom trusses. Every city has these companies. I don't know what can be retrofitted, but these are the folks that can give you any options.
Gary SwartJul 11, Like Gary said, check into trusses or consider a glulam beam. Dimensional lumber, even sistered 2x12's does won't give you much support over a 22' span. When I took out a wall in my living room I originally had a 26' span.
I could get a glulam beam for several hundred dollars that would go the full span. I also remember something about 3 2x12's glued and screwed but the glulam would have been easier. I used a local company but I believe even Lowes and HD can spec and order glulam beams.
I ended up putting in two posts so my longest span was only 12'. TJanakJul 12, I would just add this note. Even professional building contractors and carpenters do not build their own trusses.
You can't just stick in some 2 by braces where it looks like it might help. Trusses are engineered using the building specs. Ideally of course, this is done before construction, but an engineer in a truss building company can tell you what, if anything, can be done to beef up what you have.
Gary SwartJul 12, Those "nailing plates" indicate that this IS an engineered truss, however they were designed for a specific load but you do not know how much overdesign they used. You would have to know the characteristics of the wood actually used to compute their capacity.